Hey guys, sorry for lack of blogging lately. Something about this place makes it hard to sit still at a computer for too long. Not really a whole lot to tell anyways...It is two weeks after the notorious backflip. For the first week I could barely move. I could move the second week but still with much pain. Today it only hurts in the morning and my ribs, there is definitely still pain in the rib cage area. Luckily though, I have found some more cliffs since then to redeem myself on! Recently we've gone on more hikes, and we drove out to Hana (one of the prettiest places on earth, as long as you don't get car sick) with some friends. I will post some pictures later. We are still working on the house. It's almost done so we are too. Kinda looking forward to being unemployed actually, we'll get to surf more! This place is pretty amazing. It's hard to take anything too seriously, life is just more simple here. for example...
Here and Now vs. Then and There:
- No Shirt, no shoes, no problem
- I don't have a car and that's awesome
- I own a surfboard
- It takes 30 seconds to get to the beach, not 43,200 seconds
- I don't use or even carry my phone very much at all
- There are four times of day: Daytime, sunset, Nighttime, sunrise
- I sleep with the sun
- Hitch hiking is fun and an excellent way to meet cool people
- I'm single, I'm 27, I'm normal
- I play on a board
- I eat spam, and like it
- I can stay in the water for hours without getting cold
- No one seems to get old
- I ride my bike everywhere
- I can't get my shower water cold enough.
- I hardly ever wear a shirt
- I hardly ever wear shoes
- I wait for swells not storms
- Kicking the coral and sunburns are the only things I worry about
- Two words: Tourist Girls!
- Two more words: Surfer Girls!
- It's hard to read street signs
- There are only 2 directions, toward the beach and away from the beach
- I don't know who won the Stanley Cup or the NBA Finals
- There is a rainbow almost everyday.
- and much much more!
I'm learning things here too. I'm learning that it is possible to do with your life whatever you want to do. Too many times in my life I have made lame excuses to not do something I wanted to. I regret that, a lot. But being here is motivating. I am really determined now to go and do the things I've wanted to do with my life since high school. Money won't be an excuse, time won't be an excuse, and I will no longer tell myself I'll do it later. Life is happening now, you have to make things happen now. The future is important but you make the future by what you do right now. No more waiting, no more wondering. Do it now. Do you want to be a river guide? Go do it now. Want to be a ski instructor in New Zealand? Do it now. Want to be the next Warren Miller. Do it now! Get it?
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