Saturday, August 8, 2009
Well I have some good news and some bad news. The bad news is no luck on finding a new job. The good news is that because I don't have a job I am getting really good at surfing! I mean really, I think surfing might just be my new job I'm so awesome. Who wouldn't want to pay me to surf?! I'd totally pay myself to surf if I could afford it, that's how good I'm getting! There is more bad news though, I lost my wingman. This must be how Maverick felt when Goose died. Yes, it is true...Reed was lulled back to that faraway land called Utah. The man has won another soul. RIU (rest it Utah) Reed. May your days be filled with green jello, clocking in and out, and ridiculously cheap milk. And your nights be filled with air conditioners and wet dreams (Surfing dreams, sicko). I'll make sure your board doesn't ever get lonely... So it's a little different surfing alone but at least there is no one around to scare all the surfer hotties away! Woowoo! Really though, surfing is great. Last weekend we were in Oahu and there was a freakishly big south summer swell so we got some boards and paddled out. It's a good thing I was already in the water because I totally wet my dungaroos. It was because of fear and excitement all in one! Seriously, have you ever surfed on a wave that was ten feet tall? Well I have! And it was awesome! The feeling of catching that wave then speeding down that huge face and making a perfect turn as all that force and power starts to crash down behind you and speeding off just in time to...get nailed by some kook on a paddle board! It's a pretty amazing feeling, and yes, despite the awesome swell, waikiki is way too ridiculously crowded. Totally worth fighting the crowds to catch those waves though. That weekend we also went to the Polynesian Cultural Center and Pearl Harbor. Plus a lot of North Shore. It was all awesome. I could make a movie about my life and just call it Awesome. I'll get pictures from Oahu up here soon. Back here on Maui the waves have been quite small, but that all is going to change when hurricane Felicia gets here! That's right, I'm going to surf in a HURRICANE next week! Dad, don't worry, it's not as dumb as it sounds, the storm is only supposed to be a tropical storm by the time it gets to me. But still, I'm sticking with my word...AWESOME! So a few weeks back some friends came out to visit us, I've got some slideshows from all those adventures but I'll get those up later. Hope you are all well! Aloha Au Ia`oe
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