Thursday, August 19, 2010

Scratch That

In keeping with my new tradition of blogging about surfing, like I originally planned when creating this blog, I have some surf news.  Tonight's report pretty much tromps last nights report.  Remember that epic wave I caught last night?  (see previous entry)  Well, add about 5-10 feet to that wave, then times it by 10.  LNW+10ft. x 10 = Greatest Breakwall surf session EVER!  Tonight had nothing to do with beautiful sunsets or pretty colors, tonight...was all about the waves.  The biggest waves I have ever seen here on Maui.  Every set had at least overhead waves with a few double overhead sets coming about every ten minutes.  This means these waves were 10-15 feet high!  Do you have any idea how it feels to get hit with a 15 foot wall of water?  I do, and it's pretty incredible.  Whats even more incredible than getting churned around like a rag doll in a washing machine is RIDING a 15 foot wave!  The only thing that has come close to making me that silly with happiness is a 60 degree spotless slope of shoulder deep powder.  I rode these perfect waves for three hours tonight.  I've never surfed that fast, I've never surfed wave faces that big or for that long, I've never made such fun turns,  I've never been worked that hard...until tonight.  And tonight, most definitely takes the prize for being my most epic surf session ever.  Now I must go drain a gallon of sea water out of my sinuses...



1 comment:

Adventures in Heywood said...

I think you need to change your header picture to this one. The current one just doesn't do "Surf Report" justice.